Hi Y'all! Let me clear one thing up, I am not being lazy and ignoring my blogging during the month of international fashion weeks. I am working for TWENTY6 Magazine which is just splendid (check it out) and have been covering the London Fashion Week for them. I will be dedicating a post to TWENTY6 very soon but for now find my reviews by following the link below:
CRISTO'S LFW REVIEWS
Is that CRISTO CLEAR?
x
Monday, 18 February 2013
Monday, 11 February 2013
Giving you the heads up...
I told you last year in my post Hat-solutely Fabulous that hats are the next big accessories trend and my my haven't we seen that come to fruition in a big way, I for one have noticed an increase in people venturing into headwear tentatively trying their first fedora. The popularity of hats is of such a level that a small exhibition of catwalk millinery is on display at The Fashion Space Gallery just off Oxford Street at The London College of Fashion.
The exhibition is indeed small but it is well worth by-passing if you happen to be in the area, and if you don't live in London, well the whole exhibition is pretty much here for you to see.
From left to right and top to bottom:
- John Rocha SS13, Millinery by John Rocha, oversized floral creation.
- Katsuya Kamo, Silver head for Junya Watanabe SS13, the piece was made of hundreds of individual silver shards and fine silver chain fringing.
- Lara Jensen, ‘Vanitas' Leather Rose Headpiece SS13, replica roses crafted from ox leather.
- Yiqing Yin W12, Millinery by Paul Stafford, scarlet red hat that incorporates itself into the accompanying dress, wonderfully clever.
- AF Vandevorst AW12, Millinery by Stephen Jones, integrated scarf and hat covering the face and creating a gothic-demon style look.
- Fyodor Golan SS13, Millinery by Zara Gorman, royal blue plastic moulded hat.
- Donna Karan AW12, Millinery by Stephen Jones, grey layered trilby variation.
- Yohji Yamamoto SS04, Millinery by ITOYAMA-DESIGN, japanese inspired woven hat.
- Hannah Marshall SS10, Millinery by House of Flora, ginger hair recreation.
- Giles Deacon SS09, Millinery by Stephen Jones, ghost hat constructed from orange reflective metal.
So do I expect to see you all wearing something resembling a UFO on your head come tomorrow? No I do not, just appreciate these hats as the art pieces they are.
Is that CRISTO CLEAR?
x
ps. my favourite hat of the moment (even forgoing my beloved veiled beanie) is the peaked cloche hat. These bell shaped hats are versatile as the general shaping is delicate but the peak adds a military slant which can be emphasised with additional styling (epaulettes, a statement belt, brooches etc.) The one I got is £25 from Topshop and is a simple felt with a matt finish, is very hard wearing and has survived much wind and rain so far in 2013.
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| My adored penguin case is back! And this time is a fetching yellow for Spring! Any suggestions on names welcome! |
Monday, 4 February 2013
Chic Freak (Pronounce it "chick" and I WILL slap you)
The launch of anything is rather exciting be it a spaceship or a new concept store. Today we are concerned with the latter for on Thursday 31st January at around about 6pm saw the official launch of Chic Freak, Portobello Road's newest gem in a crown of creative wondrousness...Ok I'll tone it down!
But in all sincerity I was truly impressed by this new venture and am excited to see how it is developed. Described by owner Tamarisk East-Rigby (who is a down-to-earth delight) as half make-up, half art, half fashion, this grown-ups dressing up box is an Aladdin's cave of clothing.
The clothes are indeed directional and those of a more conservative disposition may not understand why you are presented with sequinned handbags in the shape of a leg of lamb and gold skin tight jumpsuits. And therein lies the rationale of Chic Freak. More than a shop. It is also a studio space, a space where stylists and industry professionals can come to gain inspiration, use the garments in photo shoots, customers can have their make up done and in the summer have coffee on the pavement and enjoy the surrounding Portobello appeal.
There are many Art/Fashion mergers out there after all the two naturally compliment each other. In certain contexts fashion can most certainly be defined as medium of art extending beyond mere utensils for covering oneself (Haute Couture for example). However when taken into a retail setting I have seen many stores selling nice paintings next to nice clothes. Sure that is great, but really lacks any sort of cohesion or actual purpose even if they are paintings of clothes. Chic Freak manages to find purpose and balance by combining the retail side of fashion with the technical industry side of fashion. A marriage that which will hopefully bring an injection of vibrancy and modernity back to Portobello Road. A space to showcase new designers and also just have a nice time ogling at fantastical products that will be a wonderful addition to any wardrobe.
Is that CRISTO CLEAR?
x
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| Owner Tamarisk East Rigby with Viktoria Modesta |
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| A selection of items from the store, including these wonderful Julian Hawkes and Terry De Havilland Shoes |
There are many Art/Fashion mergers out there after all the two naturally compliment each other. In certain contexts fashion can most certainly be defined as medium of art extending beyond mere utensils for covering oneself (Haute Couture for example). However when taken into a retail setting I have seen many stores selling nice paintings next to nice clothes. Sure that is great, but really lacks any sort of cohesion or actual purpose even if they are paintings of clothes. Chic Freak manages to find purpose and balance by combining the retail side of fashion with the technical industry side of fashion. A marriage that which will hopefully bring an injection of vibrancy and modernity back to Portobello Road. A space to showcase new designers and also just have a nice time ogling at fantastical products that will be a wonderful addition to any wardrobe.
Is that CRISTO CLEAR?
x
Sunday, 27 January 2013
John Galliano Take 2
Scandal and gossip are the best kindling for a good story and nothing really gets more scandalous than fashions's premier creative genius having a drunken anti-semitic rant, having it caught on camera and being completely disgraced and fired from his enviable position as creative director at Dior. And so I introduce Mr John Galliano.
A quick summary of Galliano's career up until his downfall can be found here: www.biography.com/johngalliano
Yet more intriguing than witnessing an individual's fall from grace, is seeing them return to prominence. A pleasure that is just a sick facet of human nature I suppose. So cue salacious excitement from fashionista/o's when it was announced that Galliano will be returning to fashion with a 3 week stint at Oscar de la Renta in preparation for New York Fashion Week (beginning 6th February).
de la Renta, who has dressed every single first lady since Jackie Kennedy, was trained under Cristobal Balenciaga himself and has nurtured a career as elegantly spectacular as his creations, without publicised drama or misconduct. The partnership with Galliano seems well matched with both designers favouring to create spectacularly intricate gowns that use the most complex of construction techniques.
So what of Galliano's return? Is it too soon? Should he be forgiven? Naturally these are the questions that have flared up from the press and two obvious camps of "for" and "against" Galliano's come back have formed.
Rather than rolling through the argument and counter-argument and arriving at a neutral/pointless conclusion, I am going to plainly present my opinion so that we all no where we stand. I have always felt "playing devil's advocate" is a game for pricks quite frankly, a way of hiding what YOU actually think so to speak.
Hence, I do declare:
"I am happy to see the return of John Galliano to the fashion world" - Cristo 2013
Galliano's "I Love Hitler" rant is horrendous, a man in his position of power should know better and alcohol is no excuse however I feel in this case talent must prove superior to regrettable drunken wrongdoing.
This is not a Paris Hilton-Lindsey Lohan type case where fame has been used to take shortcuts, reduce punishment and speed the process back to power. Fame comes with great benefits as well as considerable negatives. Were Galliano not famous his anti-semitic slander would never have been so widely publicised. It is unfortunate but true that far worse is spoken by many everyday yet goes unacknowledged. I stress that I am not for a moment condoning his behaviour what so ever but merely expressing that I feel his behaviour on that evening is not connected to his abilities as a designer, which are unmatched in terms of creativity, theatrics and vision. It would be a shame to lose these forever more.
Lastly, Galliano has spent the last two years in rehabilitation for alcoholism and has publicly expressed repentance for his actions. My mother's favourite phrase is "credit where credit is due" and I feel this is a time to live by this expression. Apology accepted John (from me anyway, do you agree?), now show us why you are known as a rare gem of creative talent.
Is that CRISTO CLEAR?
x
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| John Galliano |
A quick summary of Galliano's career up until his downfall can be found here: www.biography.com/johngalliano
Yet more intriguing than witnessing an individual's fall from grace, is seeing them return to prominence. A pleasure that is just a sick facet of human nature I suppose. So cue salacious excitement from fashionista/o's when it was announced that Galliano will be returning to fashion with a 3 week stint at Oscar de la Renta in preparation for New York Fashion Week (beginning 6th February).
 |
| Óscar Aristides de la Renta Fiallo |
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| Oscar de la Renta SS11 Christian Dior AW09 |
So what of Galliano's return? Is it too soon? Should he be forgiven? Naturally these are the questions that have flared up from the press and two obvious camps of "for" and "against" Galliano's come back have formed.
Rather than rolling through the argument and counter-argument and arriving at a neutral/pointless conclusion, I am going to plainly present my opinion so that we all no where we stand. I have always felt "playing devil's advocate" is a game for pricks quite frankly, a way of hiding what YOU actually think so to speak.
Hence, I do declare:
"I am happy to see the return of John Galliano to the fashion world" - Cristo 2013
Galliano's "I Love Hitler" rant is horrendous, a man in his position of power should know better and alcohol is no excuse however I feel in this case talent must prove superior to regrettable drunken wrongdoing.
This is not a Paris Hilton-Lindsey Lohan type case where fame has been used to take shortcuts, reduce punishment and speed the process back to power. Fame comes with great benefits as well as considerable negatives. Were Galliano not famous his anti-semitic slander would never have been so widely publicised. It is unfortunate but true that far worse is spoken by many everyday yet goes unacknowledged. I stress that I am not for a moment condoning his behaviour what so ever but merely expressing that I feel his behaviour on that evening is not connected to his abilities as a designer, which are unmatched in terms of creativity, theatrics and vision. It would be a shame to lose these forever more.
Lastly, Galliano has spent the last two years in rehabilitation for alcoholism and has publicly expressed repentance for his actions. My mother's favourite phrase is "credit where credit is due" and I feel this is a time to live by this expression. Apology accepted John (from me anyway, do you agree?), now show us why you are known as a rare gem of creative talent.
Is that CRISTO CLEAR?
x
Friday, 18 January 2013
Cashmere Competition
The snow has begun falling, society descends into chaos and
like a shining beacon providing hope and warmth I am going to run a wee
competition. And yes I have Scottish blood in me so I have every right to use
the word “wee” as an adjective.
I follow the general credo of “When it’s cold, wear
cashmere” because quite frankly fleece is a fucking disaster! Investing in a good cashmere jumper is worth the money. Cashmere is incredibly warm and won’t make you
look like you’ve swallowed a child. As much as I love a good chunky knit.
Sometimes you need to look a bit less casual and cashmere is your answer.
Therefore I am happy to announce the opportunity to win this delicious grey crew neck jumper from luxury cashmere brand Gladys & Pixie.
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| The cashmere is from Mongolia if that makes you more interested! |
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| Look at that detail!! The Mongolian cashmere fibre is one of the finest in the world. |
The jumper comes in a size S. If you are a size S woo hoo, if not or a boy what an incredible free present you'll be able to give and claim that you bought, or option number three...ebay! (and there's no point in keeping it from you its original retail price is £145).
To enter, simply like the Cristo Clear Fashion Facebook page and share the Cashmere Competition post. To be entered twice follow Cristo Clear Fashion on twitter. Links below. Why wouldn't you? A winner will be drawn at random on Monday 22nd January 2013 at midnight.
Is that CRISTO CLEAR?
x
Thursday, 17 January 2013
London Fashion Week Countdown Begins
Clear the diaries and note the date for the countdown to London Fashion Week begins (again)! LFW will officially begin in just under a month, commencing on Friday 15th February and running until Tuesday 19th February. But that's not a week I hear you cry...well tough, that's the way it has always been so find someway of coping.
In February we will see the Autumn/Winter 2013 collections and I for one look forward to what London's designers have to offer, especially bearing in mind that black (the staple colour of winter) is a major trend for this summer and I am sure the highly fashion conscious will be looking for something new.
The preliminary schedule has been released (www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/schedule) and I have made two lists below. For each day of LFW I have selected two designers. One that I feel fashionista/o's will appreciate (The Miranda Priestly choice) and then one that I think those who feel they don't know/understand fashion should check out (The Andy Sachs choice). If you've never watched The Devil Wears Prada, firstly shame on you! And secondly you will struggle to understand those references. Photos below show the designer and examples from their last collections.
Friday 15th February
Miranda's Choice: Central Saint Martins MA
The elite postgraduates selected by fearsome course director Prof Louise Wilson OBE, will send their graduate collections down the runway for the first time. This show is a must see for those scouting new talent and looking for the success stories of the future. Expect the weird and wonderful but an assured display of talent in every garment.
Andy's Choice: Zoë Jordan
Awarded WALPOLE Brand of Tomorrow in 2012, the designer has gone from strength to strength. Her aesthetic is built on sleek and clean lines that whilst highly feminine has an androgynous edge that provides a powerful vibe. Her designs are highly wearable and always use a fantastic colour palette.
Saturday 16th February
Miranda's Choice: Thomas Tait
The Canadian designer who debuted just last year, is the wonder boy of structure. The garments hold incredible curve silhouettes, and the garment construction techniques are obviously complex but effortlessly accomplished.
Andy's Choice: House of Holland
Henry Holland's bold and colourful collections have resulted in collaborations with Topshop in the past and is a great designer to watch if you are looking for fun without the "why are they wearing boxes on their heads" aspect that a more directional designer might cause.
Sunday 17th February - THIS IS THE BEST DAY IN MY OPINION AND I COULD HAVE PICKED SEVERAL! I know that I am going to be settling in with my popcorn and notepad and watching the live streams of pretty much every show.
Miranda's Choice: Jonathan Saunders
Having won the Elle Designer of the Year Award 2012 and the Vogue Fashion Fund Award 2012, Saunders has a lot of pressure on his shoulders to deliver a knock out collection. I am confident that he will, having fallen in love with his menswear collection I don't see why this cannot be repeated for womenswear. Master of print and colour and an exquisite artisan using silk I am sure the collection will be worth a gander at the very least.
Andy's Choice: Mulberry
Creative Director Emma Hill has transformed the brand since she took the supple leather reigns in 2007 increasing profits to nearly £50million. The show is always strongly themed has seen the addition of bicycles and poodles accompanying the models down the runway in previous seasons. This show will definitely express the entertainment side of fashion shows.
Monday 18th February
Miranda's Choice: Tom Ford
Prior to his menswear show held last week Tom Ford was the last designer to refuse press access to his shows. Instead choosing to release a few selected images well after the show. Whether this had diva-ish intent or not, his attempt to keep his shows exclusive somewhat backfired when influential press and bloggers began slating him. Once again the power of the internet crushes a traditional set up, however in this case I am rather happy about it. Ford produces collections of rarely-rivalled quality which is widely known, but this season you can see it as it happens as opposed to waiting a week, which after all in thus day and age might as well be a year!
Andy's Choice: Burberry Prorsum
The undisputed crown jewel of LFW, and to be frank, why wouldn't it be? In numbers, Burberry is London's most successful brand by...well... tens of millions. As a global super brand Burberry draws attention from the press, buyers, a sneaky chav or two who thinks they can still pull it off. Everyone! Expect a big budget show littered with celebrity front row occupants. Watch this show if you want to get the gist of what shows are all about.
Tuesday 19th February
Miranda's Choice: Haizhen Wang
Pronounced "Hi-jen", I speak Mando so don't mess yeah :p Those immersed in the fashion world sould be eager to see what this Chinese designer, who won the Fashion Fringe Award in September 2012, has to offer. Unsurprisingly with circa 1.4billion people China produces a fair few designers but few have achieved international acclaim. With China becoming more and more influential in the world in every aspect, I am eager to see what Wang can bring to the table.
Andy's Choice: Roksanda Ilincic
Admittedly having worked for Roksanda I could be accused of being biased in my decision. Well you are wrong, cause even with this in mind as the queen of colour, Roksanda's collections will surprise and gently challenge the fashion fearful amongst us. Combining classic draping with contemporary colour and fabric choices results in consistently well received collections. Some pieces you may love and some you may hate (cue marmite analogy) but regardless deserve your attention.
That's all...
Is that CRISTO CLEAR?
x
In February we will see the Autumn/Winter 2013 collections and I for one look forward to what London's designers have to offer, especially bearing in mind that black (the staple colour of winter) is a major trend for this summer and I am sure the highly fashion conscious will be looking for something new.
The preliminary schedule has been released (www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/schedule) and I have made two lists below. For each day of LFW I have selected two designers. One that I feel fashionista/o's will appreciate (The Miranda Priestly choice) and then one that I think those who feel they don't know/understand fashion should check out (The Andy Sachs choice). If you've never watched The Devil Wears Prada, firstly shame on you! And secondly you will struggle to understand those references. Photos below show the designer and examples from their last collections.
Friday 15th February
Miranda's Choice: Central Saint Martins MA
The elite postgraduates selected by fearsome course director Prof Louise Wilson OBE, will send their graduate collections down the runway for the first time. This show is a must see for those scouting new talent and looking for the success stories of the future. Expect the weird and wonderful but an assured display of talent in every garment.
Andy's Choice: Zoë Jordan
Awarded WALPOLE Brand of Tomorrow in 2012, the designer has gone from strength to strength. Her aesthetic is built on sleek and clean lines that whilst highly feminine has an androgynous edge that provides a powerful vibe. Her designs are highly wearable and always use a fantastic colour palette.
Saturday 16th February
Miranda's Choice: Thomas Tait
The Canadian designer who debuted just last year, is the wonder boy of structure. The garments hold incredible curve silhouettes, and the garment construction techniques are obviously complex but effortlessly accomplished.
Andy's Choice: House of Holland
Henry Holland's bold and colourful collections have resulted in collaborations with Topshop in the past and is a great designer to watch if you are looking for fun without the "why are they wearing boxes on their heads" aspect that a more directional designer might cause.
Sunday 17th February - THIS IS THE BEST DAY IN MY OPINION AND I COULD HAVE PICKED SEVERAL! I know that I am going to be settling in with my popcorn and notepad and watching the live streams of pretty much every show.
Miranda's Choice: Jonathan Saunders
Having won the Elle Designer of the Year Award 2012 and the Vogue Fashion Fund Award 2012, Saunders has a lot of pressure on his shoulders to deliver a knock out collection. I am confident that he will, having fallen in love with his menswear collection I don't see why this cannot be repeated for womenswear. Master of print and colour and an exquisite artisan using silk I am sure the collection will be worth a gander at the very least.
Andy's Choice: Mulberry
Creative Director Emma Hill has transformed the brand since she took the supple leather reigns in 2007 increasing profits to nearly £50million. The show is always strongly themed has seen the addition of bicycles and poodles accompanying the models down the runway in previous seasons. This show will definitely express the entertainment side of fashion shows.
Monday 18th February
Miranda's Choice: Tom Ford
Prior to his menswear show held last week Tom Ford was the last designer to refuse press access to his shows. Instead choosing to release a few selected images well after the show. Whether this had diva-ish intent or not, his attempt to keep his shows exclusive somewhat backfired when influential press and bloggers began slating him. Once again the power of the internet crushes a traditional set up, however in this case I am rather happy about it. Ford produces collections of rarely-rivalled quality which is widely known, but this season you can see it as it happens as opposed to waiting a week, which after all in thus day and age might as well be a year!
The undisputed crown jewel of LFW, and to be frank, why wouldn't it be? In numbers, Burberry is London's most successful brand by...well... tens of millions. As a global super brand Burberry draws attention from the press, buyers, a sneaky chav or two who thinks they can still pull it off. Everyone! Expect a big budget show littered with celebrity front row occupants. Watch this show if you want to get the gist of what shows are all about.
Tuesday 19th February
Miranda's Choice: Haizhen Wang
Pronounced "Hi-jen", I speak Mando so don't mess yeah :p Those immersed in the fashion world sould be eager to see what this Chinese designer, who won the Fashion Fringe Award in September 2012, has to offer. Unsurprisingly with circa 1.4billion people China produces a fair few designers but few have achieved international acclaim. With China becoming more and more influential in the world in every aspect, I am eager to see what Wang can bring to the table.
Andy's Choice: Roksanda Ilincic
Admittedly having worked for Roksanda I could be accused of being biased in my decision. Well you are wrong, cause even with this in mind as the queen of colour, Roksanda's collections will surprise and gently challenge the fashion fearful amongst us. Combining classic draping with contemporary colour and fabric choices results in consistently well received collections. Some pieces you may love and some you may hate (cue marmite analogy) but regardless deserve your attention.
That's all...
Is that CRISTO CLEAR?
x
Tuesday, 15 January 2013
51 Is The Magic Number: PPR & Christopher Kane
For those who follow the fashion industry you will probably already know, in which case just continue reading for my hilarious banter which is O so entertaining.
So what does this mean exactly? Well, it is hardly going to affect our day to day lives but it is a positive step for British fashion. Christopher will now be officially secured into fashion's elite. Even with the likes of McQueen and McCartney, British fashion, encompassing it's home grown and imported London based designers, is held in a somewhat disjointed regard by the global audience. London Fashion Week for example, whilst gaining more and more support and admiration is still considered the runt of the litter in comparison to the Cujo's that are Paris and Milan. By PPR purchasing a dictating share in the brand, Christopher Kane, a British brand will be propelled exponentially into global awareness.
Being bought by PPR is essentially like being hand selected to win the lottery. Naturally colossal amounts of work will be required to make Christopher Kane a global name but and I'm not naively suggesting that the funds are endless but money will no longer be the worry that it once was for the brand that was only conceived in 2006. PPR owns the following brands:
For those who do not, remember how I did a post about the rumours of who would take over the creative helm of Balenciaga and that Christopher Kane was most likely to be the successor? If your having a tumble weed moment you can remind yourself by following the link on the right ---------->
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| Christopher Kane |
Christopher Kane was presumed for the Balenciaga role after he split from designing for the Versace diffusion line Versus and had meetings with PPR executives (the French luxury goods conglomerate that owns Balenciaga), the plot thickens. Then Alexander Wang was announced with the role and we all get very confused again, until today when it is officially announced that PPR has bought a controlling share in Christopher Kane. The business is estimated at $27million, you do the maths!
So what does this mean exactly? Well, it is hardly going to affect our day to day lives but it is a positive step for British fashion. Christopher will now be officially secured into fashion's elite. Even with the likes of McQueen and McCartney, British fashion, encompassing it's home grown and imported London based designers, is held in a somewhat disjointed regard by the global audience. London Fashion Week for example, whilst gaining more and more support and admiration is still considered the runt of the litter in comparison to the Cujo's that are Paris and Milan. By PPR purchasing a dictating share in the brand, Christopher Kane, a British brand will be propelled exponentially into global awareness.
Being bought by PPR is essentially like being hand selected to win the lottery. Naturally colossal amounts of work will be required to make Christopher Kane a global name but and I'm not naively suggesting that the funds are endless but money will no longer be the worry that it once was for the brand that was only conceived in 2006. PPR owns the following brands:
- Balenciaga
- Bottega Veneta
- Gucci
- Yves Saint Laurent
- Alexander McQueen
- Brioni
- Stella McCartney
- Sergio Rossi
- Boucheron
- Girard - Perregaux
- Jeanrichard
- and now Christopher Kane
To steal Jane Fonda's line from the L'Oreal advert "Not bad, huh?". The plan is to follow the standard expansion protocol of establishing a stand alone store (then another and another), increase market budgets tenfold and introduce a diffusion line.
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| Check out Christopher Kane past collections here: www.style.com Or shop the collection at Net-A Porter: www.net-a-porter.com/Christopher_Kane |
Kane's work is undoubtedly impressive and talent has assured him a successful career that lead to him being hand selected by Donatella Versace to lead Versus. Akin to the Versace family, Christopher Kane the brand is directed by Christopher and his sister Tammy. I am excited to see how the company grows with external (French) influence and hope the aesthetic this sibling management team have developed remains strong. Regardless I will most avidly be waiting to comment.
Is that CRISTO CLEAR?
x
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